15 Sep – Hai Van Pass

I’m writing this blog after two very exciting days, although there was a little bit of sadness thrown into the mix as well – only a little bit though, as our holiday draws to a close.

After 3 days in Hoi An, it is time for us to get back on our bikes for a big days cycling, which will include the 10 kilometre, 500 vertical metre ascent of the Hai Van Pass on our way to Hue.  After yesterday’s weather, we were seriously expecting to be taking the bus all the way to Hue, but after a wild day of torrential rain, and cyclone winds which toppled some of the palms at the resort, we awoke this morning to find the resort grounds staff righting all the toppled trees, the wind down to a gentle breeze, and the day dawning bright and beautiful.

All hands pitching in

The cyclists were in for a good days cycling, and we kicked off from the hotel promptly at 8:47 ish – you don’t get to exact on times or distances in Vietnam, which can be a challenge for some of the party, but in general, we all go with the flow and let the day unfold to what the day will unfold to.

The first couple of kilometres saw our group start to fragment, and not wanting to drop off the leading bunch, I put in an effort to catch Cuong and the riders that were attentive and diligent enough to have stayed with him.  This proved to be a good move, as Cuong gradually increased the pace, and soon enough my GPS showed that we were clipping along at 37kph, on our hybrid bikes with their commuting tyres.  I was determined to stay with this group of about 6 or 7, and we had a great ride for the first 30ks.  For a while, I was riding 3^rd wheel, but the pace really was hot, and at the first sign of me slipping back the rest of the group jumped past me, and I was relegated to tail end Charlie and holding on all the way to Da Nang. 

As we reached Da Nang, the skies greyed, then blackened and in short order, we were cycling in the middle of another torrential down pour.  As luck would have it, the bus had stopped at the side of the road, so we took shelter in a layby by the beach while the weather passed.  While we were there, a bus load of Aussie tourists stopped, so a few of the group leapt onto their bus to ask who their Prime Minister is today, as Tony Abbott had been dumped from the job overnight.

After the weather cleared, we took off again, but this time the pace was much more sedate and we were cruising along under Cuong’s guidance at a much more leisurely 22-23.  Another 10ks in, and the rain was starting again, the roads were wet, and just as we came into a small town we started hitting the painted judder bars that are a feature here, and the combination of the wet, the paint, the bumps, and I think a truck going past caused Dennis, who was two riders in front of me, to hit the tarmac.  This was the first accident of the holiday, and Dennis was fortunately only cut and bruised.  Being South African tough, Dennis was immediately on his feet and ready to hit the pedals again.  Fortunately, cooler heads prevailed, and the Doctor was called for to apply antiseptic and bandages to ensure that Dennis would be riding another day, as well as today.

While we waited for the wounds to be cleansed and bandaged, the heavens again opened and we were treated to yet another aquatic display Vietnam truck and motorbike style.

A dry road just a few minutes earlier

The site of the accident was just two kilometres from the bottom of the Hai Van Pass, where we had agreed we would do a handicapped time trial, with the intention that we would have a staggered start and all meet at the finish line together.  Stuart was master of ceremonies, and had us all leaving the starting point at various intervals to ensure the desired outcome.  I started well, and caught several of the people who had left in front of me, but then the hill came, and 10ks of uphill is quite a lot, and have I mentioned the heat and humidity, the quality of the bikes, and my fitness. 

In true professional cyclist style, I avoided all performance enhancing drugs, and tackled the challenge with enthusiasm and determination, until I spotted some not to be repeated photo opportunities, where I stopped and took photos.  This ultimately cost me a place, but provided you with this wonderful photo of the route that I had just ridden, and the view that I was getting to see.

Panorama of the view from the best spot, but not the top of the Hai Van Pass

Built South African Tough - battered, but now bowed - Dennis on his way to the top

Arriving at the top, it was great to see everyone else who had already completed the ride, and to get to wait for the other riders who were soon to complete it.  The break gave yet another opportunity for food and drink refreshments, and for the heavens to again open, and the fog to roll in.

As we left the top of the pass, it wasn’t possible to see more than about 30 metres, and given the amount of diesel I’d seen on the road, I was worried what the descent – all 11ks of it – was going to be like.  I need not have worried however, as the fog soon cleared, the surface, although wet, was abrasive and the descent very safe.  I did have to pass a pig truck at one stage, but the driver seemed keen to be shot of all these cyclists, so we were soon past him and on our way to the bottom and lunch.

The view on the dsecent

Wildlife of all description to distract us as we headed for lunch

Lunch was again the end of cycling for the day, and we were lucky to stop at a resort for lunch that gave us towels and let us use their poolside changing rooms to have a shower, before we got in the bus for the ride to Hue.  Some people were keen to do more riding, however it would not have been possible, as yet again, you guessed it, the heavens really opened this time, and we were driving down rivers on the road, which would have been impossible to ride down.

Roads were flooded by this

We have now arrived in Hue, and are staying at a nice hotel - the Romance Hotel, where we ate dinner because it was just easier, rather than taking a bath in the rain outside.  We've been very lucky in that the rain hasn't stopped us doing anything, and today's ride was the longest I'd done at 70ks, and also gave a real sense of achievement, going over the Hai Van Pass.  It might not be up there with the European passes, but it was great for me to ride it, and great also the have the challenge of the time trial thrown in.

The sadness I mentioned at the start of the post, was that the holiday is now starting to draw to a close, and today we said goodbye to our two bus drivers, who are going back to Hoi An, and the truck driver and the mechanic, who are taking all the bikes and driving all the way back to Hanoi.  We will be in Hue for two days before we fly to Hanoi, but today was the last we see of those four members of our crew, so it was sad to say goodbye to them.